Let me introduce you to the Race Across Scotland, a 215-mile (346km) Coast to Coast Ultra-Marathon that is unlike any other. This amazing race takes place every year, and this is its 7th edition. It follows the beautiful ‘Southern Upland Way’, a National trail that crosses the whole of Scotland.
Runners from all over the world join this incredible challenge, starting from the charming seaside town of Portpatrick and ending at the stunning North Sea coast. Along the way, they encounter mountains, valleys, and forests, as well as historical landmarks that add to the charm of the race.
The Race Across Scotland is a single-stage race that tests the endurance and resilience of the ultrarunners. They have up to 100 hours to complete the course, and they can track their progress online with GPS. This is a race that will push them to their limits and reward them with unforgettable memories. This is the 215 Mile #RaceAcrossScotland!
The Southern Upland Way stands as a captivating long-distance footpath and trail within Scotland, spanning an impressive distance of approximately 214 miles (344 km). This remarkable route commences from the enchanting west coast at Portpatrick and ventures onward to the picturesque east coast at Cockburnspath. Notably recognized as one of Scotland’s Great Trails, it unveils a demanding yet diverse passage, meandering through an array of landscapes.
These landscapes encompass a captivating blend of elements, ranging from the rugged majesty of hills to the serene expanse of moorlands, the tranquility of forests, the charm of valleys, and the rustic charm of farmlands.
The Southern Upland Way is not for the faint-hearted, as it is a challenging and demanding hike that requires stamina and perseverance. But it is also a rewarding and memorable experience that will leave you with a sense of accomplishment and awe. It is a hike that will touch your soul.
This is the story of how I ran the Race Across Scotland, a 215-mile (or more like 220 miles, because of the diversion) ultra-marathon along the Southern Upland Way. My adventure began on Friday evening, when I arrived in Portpatrick with Ryan, my only support crew member. We went straight to the race HQ at the harbour, where the atmosphere was tense and busy. We were greeted by the race organiser and volunteers, who checked my mandatory kit. I was calm and confident that I had everything I needed, unlike some of the other runners who were nervous and shaky. The volunteer who checked my kit was surprised by my calmness and asked me to show him everything I had. I did as he asked, but then I had trouble fitting everything back into my bag. I decided to sort it out later at the hotel. I exited the building and took a photo with the local piper, holding my lucky number 31. Little did I know that I would lose it soon. We drove to our hotel, The Portpatrick Hotel, an old castle-like building on a hill. On the way, we stopped to close the car boot that was open. We checked in and unpacked our stuff. I prepared everything I would need for the morning, as the race would start at 6am and I had to be at the start line by 5am. Then I realised that I had lost my race number. How could that happen? I had never lost a number before a race. We searched everywhere, but we couldn’t find it. It must have flown out of the car boot when we opened it, as it was very windy that day. I had to go back to the race HQ and tell them what happened. They were shocked and told me that this was the first time in 7 years that someone had lost their number before the race. They said they would give me a new number in the morning and not to worry about it. But I felt embarrassed and stressed. Why do I always make things harder for myself before a race? Back at the hotel, we had some food, showered and tried to sleep. But sleep was hard to come by, as the wind was howling outside and rattling the old windows. Ryan couldn’t sleep either. The room faced west, directly into the wind from the Atlantic ocean. Suddenly, my alarm went off. It was time to get up. Did I sleep at all? I felt ok, but maybe it was just the adrenaline kicking in. There was no turning back now. It was time to face the challenge.
With Ryan by my side, I went to the race HQ and got a new number, a lovely Bib Number 33 that I preferred over the 31 I had before. I was thrilled and shared my new number on social media for my followers.
The race HQ was buzzing with people, 132 runners inside and outside the building, waiting for the race to begin. The wind was blowing hard and the rain was pouring down. It looked like it would not stop anytime soon. It was heavy and steady. I saw some familiar faces among the crowd. It was nice to see friends and acquaintances, such as Adam Armata and his wife, Paul Nelson, Woody Felton, Jacob Snochowski, Grzegorz Korsak.
We lined up behind the start line at the harbour, ready to begin our adventure across the Southern Upland Way. The sound of the piper and drummer filled the air with excitement. This was it, the moment we had been waiting for. We counted down from ten and then we were off, running towards the horizon. The crowd cheered us on, shouting words of encouragement and support. We followed the trail that zigzagged along the coast, climbing up and down the rocky hills and grassy slopes. The Atlantic ocean sparkled in the sun, inviting us to touch its water. I copied Jacob and dipped my fingers in the sea, making a vow to do the same when I reached the North Sea at the end of the race. The runners started to spread out, forming groups of different paces. We reached the Killantrigan lighthouse, our last glimpse of the Atlantic. From there, we turned east, heading inland. The terrain changed from coastal to rural, with farm roads, fields and forests. The hills were gentle but constant, testing our endurance. I stayed behind Mark and Jacob, who were leading the pack. We arrived at the first checkpoint after about 21km (13miles). Ryan was waiting for us on the other side of the road. I quickly refilled my supplies, grabbing some gels and more food for the next section. There was no support allowed at checkpoint 2, so I had to make sure I had enough to last until checkpoint 3.
I maintained a steady pace, following the two runners ahead of me. I felt comfortable and relaxed. I stuck to my plan and kept it easy. We walked up some steep hills, saving our energy for later. We had to be careful of the farm animals that we encountered on the way. The Southern Upland Way crosses many farms and fields, and we had to make sure we closed the gates behind us so the sheep, cows or horses would not escape. We had some close encounters with cows and horses, who seemed curious or annoyed by our presence. They ran towards us or in front of us, forcing us to stop or run faster. At one point, after passing Mark, I followed Jacob across a bridge and into a field of horses. Two of them charged at us, making us sprint to the gate. They were just trying to scare us off, but it was terrifying. I was glad to get out of there. From there, we ran on different terrains, mostly grassy and wet. We opened and closed many gates. Checkpoint 2 was a small checkpoint on the side of a road. Adam gave us some bananas to eat. The first 167km of the race was the wettest part of the whole Southern Upland Way. I tried to keep my feet dry, but it was not easy. I lost sight of Jacob and reached checkpoint 3 at Glentrool Village. It was an out and back checkpoint. I ran west to the checkpoint and then east out of it. I did not see Jacob coming out of it, so I did not know where he was. I hoped he was not too far ahead. Ryan was there for me at the checkpoint, with more food and water for me. I did not want to sit down, as many people advised me to do. It was too early in the race to waste time sitting down. I felt good for having run 70km. I was focused and determined. I grabbed my food and water and left. Running to checkpoint 4 was amazing. It was one of the nicest parts of the first half of the race. The forestry roads and long climbs were hard, but the views were stunning. The rain stopped and I took off my jacket. But then it started again, heavy and long showers that made me stop and put my jacket back on several times. I did not want to get any wetter than I already was at the start of the race. Checkpoint 4 was at St John’s Town of Dalry. I crossed a beautiful bridge over a river and reached the checkpoint, which was in a church-like building or a town hall, a very beautiful building indeed. Ryan was parked behind it, with everything ready for me. He did a great job supporting me. I could not have asked for a better crew than Ryan. I walked into the building to check in and saw Jacob sitting inside. I walked to the back and sat down for the first time after 108km (67miles). I ate a nice pasta meal that was cold but delicious.
I did not linger there for long and after a quick check of my situation, I took more food and resumed my run. Checkpoint 5 was my next goal. This was the longest stretch between checkpoints, so I had to make sure I had enough food to sustain me. I recall this section being a bit tough, as there was a lot of tall grass and I had to be careful of where I was going. The route went through forests, fire breaks and marshlands. It was a bit of everything, really. I remember one thing that stood out: the fields of windmills. They were everywhere, and I ran right under them. They made a creepy noise in the wind, and I was glad I did not have to do this section in the dark. I reached the highest point of this section, Benbrack, and then continued running past Polskeoch, which made me smile a lot. It was like someone named their house after my country, as Polska means Poland. It was a nice surprise to find on the route.
I felt sorry for Jacob when he got injured. He was a strong runner and a good friend. I wanted him to finish the race with me, but I also respected his decision to let me go ahead. I hoped he would recover soon and join me again on the trail. I was also worried about my own safety, as the race was getting harder and more remote. I knew I had to be careful and avoid any injuries myself.
I can help you rewrite your text. Here is a possible version:
I got to checkpoint 5 at Sanquhar in the dark. I ran slowly through the streets, keeping my head torch off to stay inconspicuous and to save battery. At this checkpoint, I had a short break, ate some real food and ran on with strength. I felt really good. I spotted Jacob at the checkpoint, but I was faster than him to get ready and leave. Somewhere on the way up in the dark, Jacob caught up with me. He ran ahead at his own pace, and I followed mine. The ground was getting drier, I thought. We had been drenched in the first 150km, and having it drier now would make a big difference. I could see Jacob’s head torch ahead of me in the distance, then nearer on the downhill sections. I was gaining on him, without changing my speed. I wondered what was happening. Did he hit the wall? Or was he injured? I hoped not! When I reached him, I asked him what was wrong. He said he had twisted his left knee and it was giving him a lot of pain. I offered to stay with him, but he told me to go on. I said I would keep a visible distance between us until he got to the road, which was not far ahead. I reached the Old Lead Smelter road and saw Jacob a few hundred meters behind me. I continued running and informed the marshals that Jacob was injured. They said they knew, as Jacob had called them. I met Adam going that way and asked him if he was going to help him. He said he was, which was great. I reached the checkpoint, checked in and checked out as usual. My support was in the car outside the checkpoints with Ryan. I tried to keep it as normal as possible. I did not want to get too comfortable.
Ryan made me a nice hot meal that I ate in seconds. I took off my shoes and wet socks and went for a 30min nap. This was the first time I closed my eyes. The car was warm and cozy and I fell asleep right away. When I woke up, I felt pretty good, but very tired and a bit stiff. I knew I had to force myself to move. I put on fresh socks and dry shoes, packed my food for the next section, put away my head torch, grabbed my food and water and started climbing to the highest point of the whole route!
Checkpoint 6 at Wanlockhead was great, because I had some hot food and a decent sleep there. Now it was time to keep going. According to the reports and everyone who did the route before, the second half that I was starting now was much drier and easier than the first half. I was looking forward to that. I followed the road and shortcuts to almost the top of Lowther Hill, but it was so cloudy up there that I couldn’t see the ‘golf ball’. This was the highest point of the whole Southern Upland Way at above 700m. I wanted to see it, but maybe another time! The next few miles were hard on my feet, constant steep ups and downs were rubbing the bottoms of my feet causing some irritation. It wasn’t too bad but I knew I had to be careful. After that, I found the next few miles to be the hardest of the whole route. I had some stomach issues and climbing out of the Daer Reservoir was really hard work all the way to the checkpoint at Beattock. The terrain was undulating with lots of narrow forestry paths. Martin Kao caught up with me here for the first time. I didn’t expect anyone to be so close behind me, I must have slowed down a lot. Martin took the lead but not for long.
The next checkpoint at Beattock, Checkpoint 7, was an out and back one. Support vehicles were not allowed there so we decided that Ryan would wait for me at the junction before the checkpoint. I decided to speed up a bit to get to the checkpoint and left Martin behind. When I saw him on the way back to Ryan and our support car, Martin was walking and looked very tired. This gave me hope!
Here is a story I want to share with you. On the way to checkpoint 7, I ran past Ryan who was parked very far from the checkpoint. I saw that our stuff was all over the car and Ryan was running around the car and looking through the boxes in a panic. I yelled to him that he was in the wrong spot and it was too far away. He said he had lost the car keys. I was shocked. This was not happening. If that was true, we were doomed! Both of us. I kept running, trying not to panic, and thinking of a way out. Suddenly, Ryan was behind me in the car. He had found them. Thank goodness! Ryan waited for me at the junction while I did the quick out and back. Later, I learned that Jacob had quit the race, as his knee injury was too severe and he risked permanent damage. Good call. Adam, who was supporting Jacob, offered to use his car and support me. Luckily, Ryan found our car keys, so we didn’t need that. I was very grateful for Adam’s offer of help!
From checkpoint 7 at Beattock, I started to feel the race in my feet. The first day with lots of rain, my feet soaked, even after taking good care of them, the moisture and hard terrain got to them. I started to slow down. At Croft Head, I was still ahead of Martin Kao. I was pleased with that and tried to keep a good pace, but I started to slow down more. My stomach issues were not stopping and my feet were really hurting.
Finally, I got to Ettrick at checkpoint 8 where I settled in. It got really warm in the sun. I had a very warm nap in the car at the village hall. When I woke up and got myself ready to go, Martin showed up. I left the checkpoint. I didn’t know then that Martin had done a quick stop without resting and started chasing me.
After the nap, I got out of the car and started heading out to checkpoint 9. There was no time to waste. I was still in first place and I really wanted to keep it that way. My feet were hurting really bad, as well as my stomach. I had some signs of bloating which I ignored. I don’t know why I didn’t mention anything to Ryan, we could have tackled the issue much faster. I met Ryan halfway to the next checkpoint at the head of St Mary’s Loch which lifted my spirits. Ryan was keeping my spirits very high.
It’s hard for me to describe this section as I don’t remember much. Somehow, I got to Tranquair and from there to Fairmilee with checkpoint 10. I don’t really remember running the last miles of this section. I was sleepwalking and my body was not really responding. I don’t remember checking in or out, Ryan got me out of there. I only said I needed to sleep. I quickly took off my shoes and socks, grabbed a fast bite to eat, some pasta. I asked Ryan to try and dry my shoes and socks on the heaters in the hall and I fell asleep for another 30 minutes. That was the last time I slept, in Fairmilee. The last day was starting and I really wanted to reach the finish during the day! This became my obsession. But it won’t be an easy job as my feet were very sore.
I continued climbing out of the checkpoint, between houses, through parks, between some cars, buildings until finally starting moving along river Tweed in Tweedbank. Here, I took out my phone for the first time and checked the distance between me and my competitors. It was a shock to me when I realized that Martin was only 2 miles behind me and moving fast. I was hurting. I met Ryan at Mill Cottage. From there, I started climbing up between some farm fields on the road. I knew Martin was close, I saw him on the other side of the river. I was really stressing out. I didn’t know how much slower than him i had become .I will do my best from now on and no slacking.
Martin caught up with me a few miles before Lauder, checkpoint 11. It was getting very hot now, and my feet were killing me. After Martin passed me, I phoned my wife Ashley. I needed to hear her voice. I told her about my stomach issues and we had a very good chat. She also told me that they were coming to see me at the finish. This made me so happy. I had to hurry up now! Then she phoned Ryan to tell him about my stomach issues, and he got me some Rennies and a peppermint tea from a restaurant. What a star! It helped a lot, and I started to feel better in my stomach, but my feet were still in agony. I had reached 300km and had another 55km to go. I knew I could do this! But it would cost me a lot of pain. I was ready for it. Martin left the checkpoint. I had some warm food, more coffee, repacked and left too. Here I want to mention that Ryan was giving me the most amazing coffee at every checkpoint. I was truly spoiled! Thank you, Ryan!
The race was on again! Sadly, I did not see Martin until the finish line. He gave it his all. I was doing my best, but I started to daydream. I felt like I was in a different world, following a plan, like I was on a mission. It was surreal and I was struggling to stay focused. The first half of the last leg felt familiar. Strangely enough, I felt like I knew the place I was in right now. Maybe I had dreamt about this place months ago, or maybe I had been here before? I knew what I was doing here. Suddenly, I snapped out of it. I realised I had to watch my back now! Ok, maybe I could not catch Martin, but I really did not want to lose my second place. I took out my phone again and checked. Martin was quite a bit ahead of me, but I could still catch him if he slowed down! My feet hurt really bad! Adam Gray, the man in third place, was far behind, but not far enough. I pulled myself together and started pushing again. This would really hurt now.
I met Ryan one last time at halfway on leg 12, it was a quick stop, I grabbed some gels, drank some coffee and started pushing. My feet were hurting more than ever. I don’t remember crying so much on my Cape Wrath. Maybe I did, but I don’t remember. Every step felt like I was walking on hot coals, my feet were on fire. Every time I met someone who asked me what kind of event I was doing, I replied with a smile that it was the Race Across Scotland and that I was in the lead pack. I was very proud of my position. Seconds after that, I burst into tears when no one saw me. The last miles were the hardest of the whole race. Trying to finish in style, I could not run anymore, I tried but it was hard. The path was going up and down and around. I just wanted to finish. The path took us through a thick woodland with a steep climb and descent, exactly what my feet needed now. I was in agony. Finally, I got out and saw the North Sea! I made it! The path was winding around the trees, up and down some steps, through a caravan park. I did not run to the beach to touch the sea as I was afraid that Adam’s tracker had frozen and he was right behind me. It would be the worst thing to be overtaken right here. I happily continued in pain up the road along the cliffs of the North Sea near Cockburnspath. The cliffs had a beautiful red clay colour. It all looked stunning with the sun getting near the horizon. I made it! Before the sun set. Suddenly, photographers showed up and I knew I was close. It felt like miles to go, but the finish line was right around the corner.
I saw Ryan, I spotted Freya playing her trumpet, Ashley waving the flag. I joked that I was running back now. I had tears in my eyes, but they quickly dried up. I crossed the finish line. I finished the Race Across Scotland. I completed the Southern Upland Way in 62h 22min. How awesome is that!
Ashley, Maiya, Freya, the people I love the most, came to see me finish. What a wonderful surprise. Shaun was there as well, and of course Ryan, who had been with me all that time. He was a true fighter who stood by my side and looked after me for the past 62 hours. I am very grateful for all he did. I don’t think he slept much…
I received my first ever belt buckle and a trophy for finishing 2nd overall. After some photos, we went inside. I politely asked for a bowl of chips. The one thing I really wanted was a hot shower now. To take off my sweaty clothes and take care of my feet. They were hurting very bad and I was worried about their state. I didn’t want to have another infection incident like I had after my Cape Wrath Trail. The hot shower helped and I felt much better. I changed into some dry warm clothes. The food came out. I was struggling to eat it. My stomach shrank, my mouth was hurting. I ate what I could, slowly chewing every little chip very carefully that landed in my mouth. Not to mention, I stuffed my face with 3 packets of salted crisps and about 6 cinnamon rolls. I lay down on the inflatable mattresses provided by the race team and fell asleep. A 40 min cat nap was all I needed there.
Time to go home. We are all well and rested, recovery is going great.
Thank you everyone for some amazing dot watching. I really felt the energy! I hope everyone enjoyed watching my slow-moving dot.
A huge thank you goes to all mentioned below and all the supporters.
I wouldn’t be able to run those distances if it wasn’t for the help of my family and friends.
I started running to change my life.
I changed my life thanks to running.
I found the most supportive woman Ashley Macdonald Cymbalista who is always by my side. She is always there for me. She packed the car and drove south to Cockburnspath to see me finish. Before that, she updated the whole world on my progress through our social pages for 60h! Absolute hero!
Ryan MacDonald was on the front line supporting me and keeping you all updated as well as keeping a very good communication with Ashley.
They are both heroes in my eyes. Not me. I just did some running. One foot in front of the other. Slowly to the finish. I had one job to do, run.
They were multitasking. They gave all their time so I could go and run my a…s off. Sometimes I think I should play darts instead. Less risk of friction burns and skin maceration.
Ashley running the house, looking after our children and our little farm with other stuff that goes around, trust me there is always something to do.
Ryan navigated his way through narrow B and C roads to meet me. None of us have ever been to that area of the country, let alone do the whole length of the Southern Upland Way. Organizing food, water, hot food, cold food, dry shoes, dry socks, change of clothes ready, sudocrem (don’t ask), keeping my spirits up and keeping himself rested enough, fed and organized to the maximum.
Thanks to them, I got to the finish line.
That is a fact.
I will be grateful for eternity.
A big thank you goes to Race Across Scotland organizers and all the marshals. Guys, you do an amazing job. It must be so hard to coordinate so many checkpoints. But you have it sorted to perfection.
You guys invited me so many times inside for a meal, full Scottish breakfast, rolls, cake etc., and I had to politely say ‘no thank you’. Trust me, it was very hard for me to do that!
My only reason to leave the checkpoint and sit outside at the back of the support car with Ryan seconds after I checked in and out was an important rule I have…
I’m going to say it here as I listen to a lot of podcasts.
” Stay in the discomfort zone. Don’t get any fancy gimmicky heater stoves to make you feel too comfortable. It will be much harder to leave a comfortable place filled with nice food and drinks and all the comforts.
Keep it simple, keep it bearable, be a savage but stay in control. “
Massive thank you goes to my sponsors who supplied me with the best nutrition that works with me and the kit that never goes wrong.
Dynafit all my running kit from head to feet
Scott Brown for the advice, it always works talking to you my friend.
Petzl head torches
Black Diamond running poles
REAL Turmat Summit to Eat dehydrated tasty meals
Mountain Fuel Sports Nutrition gels, porridge, energy powders, recovery fuel
Resilient Nutrition nut butter, tastiest most calorific nut butters made for endurance
Gordon from TEKO SOCKS UK regenerated, eco friendly socks for all adventures
REAL Meal food bars
COROS UK Coros Vertix 2 with the best battery life and amazing navigation system (I went off course 5 times) because I wasn’t paying attention and it was 220 miles. A long way.
My boss Gillie helped me out with the cost of travels. Thank you!
Karen and Allan letting us use their car for the time of the race and transforming it into a mobile HQ, Camper, Kitchen and shelter (we used tarpaulin over the boot). Keeping it simple.
Thank you to all the photographers and drone operators. Thank you for not crashing into me while you tried to film me running. Some pretty good shots came out of that flying/filming session! Check out day 2 on the Race Across Scotland.
Last but not least A&E in Fort William. Thank you for patching me up one more time. It was as horrific as after the Unsupported Cape Wrath Trail in April. Sorry I couldn’t keep the promise of not doing it to myself again. I will try to be better every time I do something crazy.
There are many more people to thank for. You know who you are and I am grateful for eternity.
Thank you.
My Mountain Lab 